The Magical Magisterial Tour of the M.V. Uchuck III
5:30 am. We awake in our most hospitable hotel room in Gold River, to a sunrise view and embrace of the surrounding mountains, still adorned by snow-covered peaks. With generously presented by our host, melt in the mouth homemade muffins and fresh coffee in hand, we inhale the cool morning air and motor 8 klm to the wharf. There, the wood hulled and heavy metal statuesque M.V. Uchuck III awaits. Anticipation rises as we see the Uchuck silhouetted in the mist and covered in the early morning dew. You could instantly feel the pride, confidence and hospitality of the ship and her crew, as the guests were welcomed on board.
Our introduction and orientation to the ship’s mastery was delightfully interrupted by the appearance of the internationally known, young orphaned killer whale ‘Luna’. He is from the L98 pod of Killer whales that resides south of the border. Luna has had a solo residence in the Nootka Sound area since the summer of 2001. The circumstances of his separation from the pod remain unknown. For a few special minutes, some of us enjoy a once in a lifetime encounter with a whale. We observe form the deck, in respectful wonder as he rolls in the waves, occasionally lifting his head out of the water, to view his admirers. Unaware of the power of his 900kg body, the adolescent like Orca, of ebony and ivory colors, affectionately nuzzles the smaller boats. Every few minutes, he would spout air, creating rainbows in the mist of his breath. Suddenly, Luna breeches and flaps his tail flukes on the water, as if to signal that it is our departure time.
With maternal like devotion to her guests, the M.V. Uchuck III gracefully moves out into Muchalat Inlet. Luna remains our escort, seemingly knowing that this ship has officially adopted him. While Luna plays and rides the wakes and waves, the workday of the M.V. Uchuck III and her crew begins.
The Lady Donna will create heart and soul warming meals and snacks for you. Her homemade berry muffins are unforgettable. But another gracious virtue is how she proudly bears the title ‘just one of the guys’ and yet remains a true Lady.
At our first scheduled stop, Luna bids us farewell, with one final show of his magnificent body, then disappears with a deep dive between the float logs at the logging camp. Cargo is unloaded by the use of a matrix of pulley’s, leavers, cables, hooks, lifts and winches, manipulated by the crew with a precision of elegance and safety that commands instant respect for the performers of the tasks. Our attention is then captured by the release of a pile of mammoth logs that glide down the embankment, creating a mighty splash and spray as they fall into the sea. The Uchuck continues throughout the day with various similar stops, that include fish farms with jumping salmon and more logging camps.
As the day carries on, an appreciation of the wealth of resources and gifts of the land is invoked. But the greatest enhancer of insightful and local environmental lore is Captain Fred. A finer specimen of ‘ highly polished brass’ might be hard to find. As he mans the wheel in the pilothouse, he’ll reveal his wisdom of land and sea to anyone who will listen with fervent regard. You will be charmed to a position of admiration as you realize you are in the company of a true master.
And there is also the ‘chip off the Ol’ Captain’s block’, the gentle ‘just Shawn’. It is a joy to watch him work in tandem with his father, to listen to his genteel portrayal of anecdotal stories. But behind this display, you realize this young man is being passed down a tradition of strength, courage, fortitude and integrity of the ship’s legacy.
Engineer Eric will surface now and then from his place of power below, to bid us good day, let the wind blow the cloud of engine oil from his hair and lungs, relish one of Donna’s meals, then faithfully and devotedly return to his lady twin engines of buffed chrome. With pride and honor, he’ll show off his ladies to you and tell his story of how he worked on these engines when he was twelve years old, unknowingly etching a permanent place in his future as Engineer on the Uchuck.
Deckhand Glen is the master of the skyhooks and a strategic planner of the cargo placement. From 6 ft. tires to huge container bins, tons of fish food to boxes of potato chips and orange juice, deckhand Glen’s art of placement will rival the skill of any Fen Shui artist.
Our day ends as we glide into Kyuquot harbor. The sun slips behind the trees and mountains. Eagles fly overhead against the fiery colors of the evening sky. We walk the waters edge of low tide, contemplating the day and anticipating the return trip of tomorrow. Donna bestows on us, another delicious gift of our supper. Above Miss Charlie’s Store, at the bed and breakfast, some play a few games of scrabble by candlelight, or sip tea by fire burning in the hearth. Across the bay the 103 native village residents sleep. Finally, we retire with the day’s visions of bears, eagles, Minke, Grey and Humpback whales, elk, sea lions, otters and snails, permanently painted on our canvas memory of mountain majesty, forest magic, oceans alive and vastness of sky.
And as for the following day’s journey home? Well, my friend, that is another story.
By: Linda Marie Pacheco
Toronto, Ontario
April 12, 04